No, literally. God must have blessed Goa or something because there are churches and shrines to the Virgin Mary EVERYWHERE. Hindus are allegedly in the majority in that state, but the Catholics must have a monopoly on advertisement.
We started our time in Goa with two days in Panjim (otherwise known as Panaji), the state capital and former capital of the Portuguese colonists. We splurged on a heritage hotel which was a converted Portuguese mansion and had old wood furniture, elegant balconies, and a shady terrace. It was beautiful, and a far cry from our very modest lodgings in Mumbai. Also, the included breakfast was outstanding - always a plus.
Panjim itself is a mix of old Portuguese buildings - some crumbling, others lovingly preserved - and the typical trappings of urban India: motorbikes, exhaust, dust, and crowds. It makes for a very interesting combination. Old Goa, the original Portuguese capital of Goa, is nearby. The city was built in the 1600s and there are some large old cathedrals, one of which holds the relics of St. Francis Xavier. Quite honestly, I could have given Old Goa a miss. It was absurdly hot that day and I've seen old churches far grander than these, but I suppose that the tropical, Indian environment provides for an exotic contrast to the very European construction.
After two days in Panjim, we drove up the coast to a little beach town called Mandrem. I was anxious the entire way, having heard of crowded beaches, dust and all-night parties in many of the other beach towns. Really, Ritchie and I are not all-night party people (big surprise, right?) and don't particularly like crowds. Happily, my worrying was unnecessary. Mandrem was quiet, peaceful, and uncrowded. Our hotel, though basic, was clean and the beaches and swimming were plentiful. Another added benefit? Goa has very low alcohol taxes, so while a large beer might cost 150 rupees at restaurants in other states, in Goa the same beer at a restaurant is only 90 rupees. Ah, paradise.
What can I say about our time at the beach? We read for hours by the ocean, we swam, we rented motorbikes and sought out even more deserted beaches in southern Maharashtra (only an hour north from our hotel), and we . . . actually, that about sums it up. We didn't do much else, and it was divine. The only downfall was that a hippie staying in a hotel across the road from ours insisted on playing his didgeridoo (spelling?) for hours every day. Seriously, a didgeridoo?
Goa was probably the nicest beach vacation that I've had to date - even better than Belize. If it weren't so inconveniently located, I'd probably try to go more often. One elderly British couple that we met has been coming every winter for eleven years straight. Which reminds me of another nice thing about Goa - people on relaxing holidays are lovely to chat with. Everyone is in a good mood.
Now, we're laying over in the Mumbai airport (thanks airtel for the free computer and internet access) on our way to Delhi. I've been there before and we only have one day in the city, so I've charged Ritchie with identifying the sights that he most wants to see. He currently seems fixated on the Toilet Museum (yes, it exists), so that may be how we spend our day. Anyway, more to come later!
We started our time in Goa with two days in Panjim (otherwise known as Panaji), the state capital and former capital of the Portuguese colonists. We splurged on a heritage hotel which was a converted Portuguese mansion and had old wood furniture, elegant balconies, and a shady terrace. It was beautiful, and a far cry from our very modest lodgings in Mumbai. Also, the included breakfast was outstanding - always a plus.
Panjim itself is a mix of old Portuguese buildings - some crumbling, others lovingly preserved - and the typical trappings of urban India: motorbikes, exhaust, dust, and crowds. It makes for a very interesting combination. Old Goa, the original Portuguese capital of Goa, is nearby. The city was built in the 1600s and there are some large old cathedrals, one of which holds the relics of St. Francis Xavier. Quite honestly, I could have given Old Goa a miss. It was absurdly hot that day and I've seen old churches far grander than these, but I suppose that the tropical, Indian environment provides for an exotic contrast to the very European construction.
After two days in Panjim, we drove up the coast to a little beach town called Mandrem. I was anxious the entire way, having heard of crowded beaches, dust and all-night parties in many of the other beach towns. Really, Ritchie and I are not all-night party people (big surprise, right?) and don't particularly like crowds. Happily, my worrying was unnecessary. Mandrem was quiet, peaceful, and uncrowded. Our hotel, though basic, was clean and the beaches and swimming were plentiful. Another added benefit? Goa has very low alcohol taxes, so while a large beer might cost 150 rupees at restaurants in other states, in Goa the same beer at a restaurant is only 90 rupees. Ah, paradise.
What can I say about our time at the beach? We read for hours by the ocean, we swam, we rented motorbikes and sought out even more deserted beaches in southern Maharashtra (only an hour north from our hotel), and we . . . actually, that about sums it up. We didn't do much else, and it was divine. The only downfall was that a hippie staying in a hotel across the road from ours insisted on playing his didgeridoo (spelling?) for hours every day. Seriously, a didgeridoo?
Goa was probably the nicest beach vacation that I've had to date - even better than Belize. If it weren't so inconveniently located, I'd probably try to go more often. One elderly British couple that we met has been coming every winter for eleven years straight. Which reminds me of another nice thing about Goa - people on relaxing holidays are lovely to chat with. Everyone is in a good mood.
Now, we're laying over in the Mumbai airport (thanks airtel for the free computer and internet access) on our way to Delhi. I've been there before and we only have one day in the city, so I've charged Ritchie with identifying the sights that he most wants to see. He currently seems fixated on the Toilet Museum (yes, it exists), so that may be how we spend our day. Anyway, more to come later!
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